Reaching for Vuno’s Clean Beach at Jal, Albania

The following article is written by Ethan Gelber and was first published at whl.travel blog.

About 190 kilometres south of Tirana, Albania, between Dhërmi and Himara (Himarë) in the hills above the coast, the small town of Vuno isn’t really on most people’s tourist radar. Not, that is, unless they’re headed two kilometres away to two of the Albanian Riviera’s most beautiful waterside retreats: the Jal and Gjipe beaches. Although not entirely devoid of tourist services – there are a few family-run restaurants and guesthouses at Jal – they are still blissfully unspoiled by mass tourism. However, with a new main road to the southern Albanian coast nearing completion, some people are concerned that these local gems won’t be spared for much longer.

The southern Albanian Jal beaches: still a gem but for how much longer?

One group of such people are the Outdoor Albania Association (OA Association), a Tirana-based not-for-profit working with many ideas and partners toward the development of responsible tourism in Albania. “Together with local community leaders we are clearing and securing trails, improving access to remote attractions, bringing visitors to picturesque villages and training locals to create businesses that are sensitive to the environmental impact and sustainability of their enterprises,” reads a strategy statement on the OA Association website.

It should therefore come as no surprise that one of the OA Association’s current target areas is Vuno and the land around it, particularly the Jal beaches and the walking paths to them.

A Vuno to Know

Vuno is a verdant mountainside village of narrow, cobblestone streets and approximately 200 old stone houses, only a handful of which are inhabited all year round and mainly by the elders of some 40 families. Sadly, long-term neglect has left the delightful streets damaged and dirty and many of the buildings abandoned or in ruin, forgotten by those who have moved to other cities or countries.

Vuno is a verdant mountainside village of narrow, cobblestone streets and old stone houses

With the goal of making things right in a responsible way, the OA Association has stepped in. “Members of the association in cooperation with volunteers and the young of the village, will carry out the cleanup of cobble stone streets and houses’ yards,” says a report about the OA Association’s regional ambitions.

But that’s not all. “The OA Association has started renovating the school so the local kids can use it again. In summer, the school is used as a hostel and the base for the OA Association,” said Laura Payne, an OA Association project initiator. “The plan is to fix some village houses so the locals can use them as B&Bs and gain some extra income. By doing this we are trying to sensitise the locals and show them the tourism possibilities. As the hostel is attracting many backpackers, the local shops and bars are generating more income. Now the owner of the local bar has started selling food as well as drinks. She is one of the people who understand the possibilities of local tourism. The idea is to teach by doing and explaining, to give the locals more ideas for tourism initiatives. This way the tourist get a more varied offer and the locals get more economical means.”

Reach the Beach

Part of the OA Association’s interest in Vuno is its placement as gateway to the beaches of Jal and Gjipe. A collection of small beaches, most accessible by foot, some only by boat, Jal in particular has drawn their attention.

OA Association crews have been clearing and marking the hiking paths in the area, including those to the beaches. Although there is “a narrow strip of tarmac that reaches the beach, clearing the trails enables beach access for tourists staying in Vuno without cars,” commented Gent Mati, head of the OA Association. “The 30-minute walk is very pleasant, and a lot of backpackers that stay in the ’school’ hostel use the trail to go to the main beach or minor ones.”

“In addition, work needs to be done to protect the beach,” added Payne. “After cleaning the trials to the beach and gaining the trust of the villagers, the next step is to organise a proper waste-management solution and to make sure the locals support the project by no longer throwing their garbage in the sea or near the beach. We are even looking in to the possibilities for a ‘blue flag‘ in this beach, the first in Albania.”

Coastal trail clearing between Vuno and Jal, while certainly hard work, could hardly happen in a more stunning setting

How You Can Help

The OA Association always accepts volunteer help with cleaning and marking the paths. Financial donations are also very welcome to help defray the cost of food for the volunteers and future expenses associated with the waste-management system.

More Information

Read more about the OA Association’s work in and around Vuno, as well as elsewhere in Albania.

The OA Association is a sister organisation of Outdoor Albania, a local Albanian adventure-travel company that works hard at integrating sustainable tourism practices. Outdoor Albania is also your local connection and the whl.travel partner in Albania. For more information about Albania, including hotels, tours, activities and a lot of insider tips, Laura Payne, Gent Mati and their team are standing by at www.travel-tirana.com and www.shkoder-albanian-alps.com.